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Glorious Mud: A Tourist's Introduction to Rotorua
by Jen Longshaw

Waimungu

As you enter the city limits the smell of rotten eggs hits you. Clouds of steam appear to rise from nowhere giving the area an almost eerie atmosphere right out of Jurassic Park. Yet this city is one of the hottest (literally) tourist spots in New Zealand.

Rotorua (pronounced Row-toe-rue-a) is situated in the North Island of New Zealand. Famous for its geothermal activity the area was originally settled in the 14th century by the Te Arawa people, so named as they arrived in the Te Arawa Canoe from Hawaiki, the mythical home of the Maori peoples situated somewhere in Eastern Polynesia. In the 19th century the tribe began hosting visitors after newly arrived settlers to this strange wild country began journeying to Rotorua in order to see the famous Pink and White Terraces at Lake Rotomahana. This tradition continues to this day with descendents of the original tribe hosting tourists from all around the world.

Lady Know Geyser Today there are four main geothermal areas open to visitors in Rotorua. "Whakarewarewa" is perhaps the most active with its notable feature being the Pohutu Geyser which erupts with a spout of boiling water 100 feet in the air up to twenty times a day. There are also bubbling mud pools, steaming hot springs and a Maori Pa or meeting house. "Waiotapu" and "Waimungu" are another two areas, the latter being especially known for its stunning displays. Situated 27 kilometres south of Rotorua Waimungu was created on 10 June 1886 when Mt Tarawera erupted coating the surrounding landscape with mud and ash. Awe-inspiring sights here are the Inferno Crater with its bright blue water, the bridal veil falls, champagne pools and the Lady Knox Geyser which erupts punctually at 10.15am each day. "Hell's Gate", a Maori owned park, is perhaps the more ferocious of the four areas with fiercely hot mud pools and a mud volcano.

The Polynesian Spa is one of Rotorua's popular stops with its 35 bathing pools (including hot springs and a large mineral pool), a small hydro slide, and family spa fresh water pool. Open 365 days a year it offers "Aix massage" in the Lake Spa mineral pool consisting of hot jets of water pounding into aching muscles in the back and limbs.

For the adventurous traveller there is rap jumping off a mountain, horse trekking, mountain biking, stunt flying in a bi plane, white water sledging, and 4 wheel drive safaris. Golf aficionados can play on a geothermal golf course while anglers fish for trout on one of the fourteen lakes that lie within forty minutes of the city.

A visit to one of Rotorua's local Marae (Mar-rye) can be arranged in order to experience the customs of this ancient people. Most Marae will provide a Hangi (Hung-ee). Early in the day the men will dig a hole, line it with stones and then cover these with vegetation. Pork, kumara (co-moo-ra) or sweet potato, chicken, lamb and beef along with other vegetables such as corn, potato and pumpkin are laid on top of this and then sprinkled with water before being covered with yet more leaves and branches. The whole arrangement is then covered with dirt and left for several hours while the food cooks before it emerges piping hot from the ground several hours later. Another method of cooking a hangi is when the food is prepared and put in a "kit" or flax basket before being lowered into the boiling water of a hot spring .

Mud poolAccommodation ranges from luxury lodges situated on a lakeshore to motels within walking distance of the city. Farm or home stay establishments give tourists a chance to interact with New Zealanders on an informal basis whilst still enjoying high quality service. For those with a limited income there are holiday parks, backpacker hostels and camping grounds with tourist flats, family cabins, self-contained motels and tent sites. Likewise Marae allow overnight stays where visitors sleep communally in bed rolls on the floor of the meeting house. Nearly all accommodation will have access to a private thermal spa so that travellers can soak away their weariness.

Rotorua is a living museum giving a unique insight into the forces that have formed our world. Besides giving a glimpse back into time it also allows us a chance to wonder at the magic and majesty of nature. In this respect it is a work in progress and rightly deserves its reputation as one of the most popular of New Zealand's many beauty spots.

©Jen Longshaw 2001-2006 Please do not copy in any manner, print or electronic, without permission from the author.


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